At TOMs FLOWer CLUB, we love plants that tell a story – and Globba winitii, also known as the Dancing Lady Ginger, is a poetic dancer in the plant world. With its exotic pendulous flowers and elegant seasonal rhythm, this plant invites patience, care, and admiration.

A Tropical Origin

Globba winitii originates from the humid forests of Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam, where it grows as a herbaceous perennial. It belongs to the ginger family (Zingiberaceae) and is closely related to better-known ornamental gingers. But unlike its cousins, Globba doesn't produce upright blooms – her flowers hang and sway, giving the plant its enchanting nickname.

How It Grows

The plant grows from a rhizome and reaches a height of around 30 to 60 cm. During summer, it bursts into bloom with lavender-purple or pink flowers, each tipped with yellow stamens. The floral display is airy, refined, and elegant – and will easily become a conversation piece on your balcony, terrace, or in your conservatory.

Globba winitii grows best in:

• Bright, indirect light (or light shade)

• Warm temperatures above 15°C

• Humid air (such as a tropical room or summer terrace)

• Moist, well-drained soil (avoid waterlogging)

Seasonal Dormancy

One of the most important aspects to understand: Globba winitii goes dormant in winter. As temperatures drop and days shorten, the leaves begin to yellow and fall – this is completely natural.

At this point, reduce watering and allow the soil to dry. You can either:

• Leave the rhizome dry and dormant in its pot (in a cool, dry place), or

• Dig it up and store it like a bulb in dry peat or paper until spring.

In spring, with warmth and watering, the cycle begins anew.

Tips for Growing Globba winitii

• Use a permeable organic substrate with good drainage

• Water regularly in summer – keep soil evenly moist

• Mist or shower the plant to increase humidity indoors

• Avoid heavy fertilization – quality over quantity

• Let it rest in winter (dry and cool, around 10–15°C)

• Protect from frost – not winter-hardy

A Plant for the Patient Collector

At TOMs FLOWer CLUB, we grow Globba winitii from rhizomes under organic conditions, without heavy fertilisation – so our plants grow slowly, robustly, and naturally healthy. Each plant is unique, just like its rhythm.

This plant is not for quick results, but for those who love the cycle of growth, dormancy, and rebirth. If you enjoy observing seasonal change and caring deeply for your green companions, Globba winitii is your botanical soulmate.

Discover the magic of Globba winitii and other rare tropical species in our webshop – because nature, when respected, always returns the love.

Enjoy your plant life – slow, organic, and full of wonder.
– TOM from TOMs FLOWer CLUB

Your guide to healthy growth, long-lasting blooms, and proper orchid care – the organic way.

Phalaenopsis and Doritaenopsis orchids are among the most popular indoor plants, loved for their elegant arching stems and long-lasting, colourful blooms. At TOMs FLOWer CLUB, we offer only fully established, organically grown orchids - no mass greenhouse treatments or forced blooming shortcuts. Here’s how you can care for your orchid the natural way and enjoy its beauty for years to come.

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🌸 How to Encourage Long-Lasting Blooms

Phalaenopsis (and the closely related Doritaenopsis hybrids) can bloom for several months under the right conditions. Here’s how to support and extend their flowering phase:

• Light: Bright, indirect light is key. Avoid harsh midday sun, especially through south-facing windows, which can scorch the leaves. East or west-facing windows are ideal.

• Temperature: Keep daytime temperatures between 20–25°C, and slightly cooler nights around 16–20°C. These mild fluctuations can stimulate blooming.

• Humidity: Orchids love humidity! Aim for 50–70%. Mist the leaves (not the flowers) regularly with rainwater or filtered water.

• Fertiliser: Use a very gentle, organic orchid fertiliser during the growing and blooming season – typically every 3-4 weeks. Less is more; overfertilising weakens the plant.

• Avoid moving the plant when it is about to flower or while in bloom - it may drop its buds.

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🌱 What to Do After Flowering

Once the flowers fade, don’t worry – your orchid is far from finished!

1. Don’t cut the stem off completely – instead, trim it just above a visible node (the small bump on the stem below where the last flower grew). This can encourage a secondary flower spike to form.

2. If the stem turns brown and dries up completely, you can cut it off near the base.

3. During the rest period (usually autumn or early winter), reduce watering slightly and give the plant a cool rest (16–18°C at night) to help trigger future blooming.

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💧 Watering the Right Way

Orchids do not like wet feet — but also dislike drying out completely.

• Water once a week in winter and up to twice a week in summer.

• Always use room-temperature rainwater or soft tap water if possible.

• The best time to water is in the morning.

• Let water drain completely – never leave water in the saucer.

• Misting the leaves (not the blooms!) 2–3 times per week increases humidity and keeps the plant vibrant.

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🪴 Repotting Tips

Repot your orchid every 2–3 years, preferably after flowering and when new roots begin to grow.

• Use a well-draining orchid substrate — at TOMs FLOWer CLUB, we pot our orchids in a self-mixed, breathable, bark-based mix.

• Choose a clear plastic orchid pot or a clay pot with good air circulation.

• Remove any mushy or rotten roots during repotting.

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🌿 Best Location Indoors

• Ideal Placement: Near east or west-facing windows with filtered light.

• Avoid: Draughts, radiators, and direct midday sun.

• In summer, you can place your orchid outdoors in a sheltered, bright spot (no direct sun or rain). Bring it inside before nights drop below 15°C.

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🌺 Let Your Orchid Thrive Organically

At TOMs FLOWer CLUB, all orchids are grown with organic care: no overfertilisation, no glossy sprays, no forced blooms — just natural, slow, and healthy development. With just a little patience and the right conditions, your orchid will reward you with elegant, breathtaking blooms time and again.

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💚 Need help choosing your next orchid?
Explore our current selection of Phalaenopsis and Doritaenopsis orchids in full bloom — each with its own unique charm. Shop now at TOMs FLOWer CLUB

Are you trying to multiply your striking variegated Sansevieria, only to be disappointed when the new growth turns completely green? You’re not alone — and there’s a botanical reason behind it.

The Science Behind It:

Most variegated Sansevieria types — such as Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii' — are chimeras. This means their variegation comes from genetic differences between different tissue layers in the plant’s leaves. When you take a leaf cutting, you often only get one tissue layer — and that’s typically the green one. As a result, new growth reverts to a basic, non-variegated form.

Why Leaf Cuttings Fail to Keep Variegation:

• Variegation requires specific genetic material present in all the right tissue layers.

• Leaf cuttings lack the full structure needed to replicate the variegation.

• The result? A perfectly healthy but plain green Sansevieria.

The Correct Way to Propagate Variegated Sansevieria:

To maintain the unique variegation patterns, you should:

• Divide the rhizome of a mature plant

• Or separate natural pups (offshoots) growing at the base

These methods carry the exact cell structure needed to pass on the original variegation.

What We Do at TOMs FLOWer CLUB:

At TOMs FLOWer CLUB, all Sansevieria plants in our collection are:

• Organically grown without forced fertilization

• Propagated slowly and naturally by division or from pups

• Offered in self-mixed, permeable organic substrate

• Carefully selected to preserve their original form and pattern

We grow for quality, not quantity — so you can enjoy a lasting, stable, and uniquely beautiful plant.

Philodendron Prince of Orange – A Colourful Statement for Any Interior

TOMs FLOWer CLUB Blog
Organically grown plants – naturally special

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🌱 Introduction: The Bold Charm of "Prince of Orange"

Among the many captivating cultivars in the Philodendron family, Philodendron Prince of Orange stands out with its uniquely changing foliage colours – from fiery orange new growth to mature mid-green leaves. This vibrant tropical houseplant is not only a visual stunner but also easy to care for, making it ideal for beginners and collectors alike.

In this blog, we’ll explore its botanical background, native roots, and how to care for it properly – including useful tips from the organic cultivation at TOMs FLOWer CLUB.

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🌍 Origin & Habitat – From Tropical Forests to Your Home

Although Philodendron Prince of Orange is a cultivar (meaning it doesn’t occur in the wild), its parentage traces back to tropical Central and South America – the native home of the Philodendron genus. These plants typically thrive in humid rainforests, growing under the canopy in filtered light, often clinging to trees or creeping across the forest floor.

"Prince of Orange" was bred for compact growth, vibrant colour transitions, and self-heading form, meaning it doesn’t trail or climb like many of its relatives. This makes it perfect for indoor displays, tables, and plant shelves.

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🌿 Care Guide – How to Keep Your Prince Thriving

☀️ Light Requirements

This Philodendron loves bright, indirect light. Too much direct sun can scorch the delicate, colourful new leaves. A semi-shady spot with dappled light is perfect.

💧 Watering

Water moderately. Allow the top few centimetres of soil to dry out between waterings. Avoid soggy roots – this plant prefers moist, but not wet substrate.

🌡️ Temperature & Humidity

Keep it in room temperatures between 18–27°C. As a tropical species, it enjoys higher humidity. If your air is dry, mist the leaves regularly or place the pot near a tray with pebbles and water.

🌱 Soil

At TOMs FLOWer CLUB, we pot our plants in a self-mixed, permeable organic substrate – airy, well-drained, and rich in natural nutrients. This prevents root rot and encourages strong growth.

🌸 Fertilising

Since our plants are organically grown and not over-fertilised, we recommend light feeding during spring and summer with a balanced organic liquid fertiliser, diluted to half strength.

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✂️ Propagation – Rejuvenating the Prince

Philodendron Prince of Orange is usually propagated through stem cuttings or division. As a self-heading type, cuttings are taken from the central growth, ideally when the plant is mature and strong. Cuttings should include at least one growth node and a leaf, and be placed in moist substrate or water until roots form.

At TOMs FLOWer CLUB, we occasionally offer freshly cut, unrooted rejuvenations – ideal for experienced plant lovers who enjoy starting from scratch.

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🌟 Expert Tips from TOMs FLOWer CLUB

• 💨 Leaf care: Wipe the leaves every 2–3 weeks with a damp cloth or give the plant a gentle shower to keep them dust-free and healthy.

• 🪴 Repotting: Only needed every 2–3 years. Choose a slightly larger pot with good drainage.

• 🚫 Toxicity warning: Like most Philodendrons, Prince of Orange is toxic to pets and humans if ingested – keep it out of reach of small children and animals.

• 🌿 Leaf colour hint: The more light (without direct sun), the brighter the orange hues of the new leaves!

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🌱 Why Choose TOMs FLOWer CLUB?

Each Philodendron Prince of Orange offered at TOMs FLOWer CLUB is:

• 🌿 From our own plant collection

• ✅ Organically grown, without over-fertilisation or synthetic sprays

• 🌱 Potted in self-mixed, permeable organic substrate

• 📏 Approx. 40×80 cm in size

• 🪴 Ready to thrive – just choose the right place, water with care, and enjoy the colour transformation!

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✨ Final Thought

The Philodendron Prince of Orange is more than a houseplant – it’s a living colour show, evolving in tones from flame to forest, season after season. Whether you’re a new plant parent or an experienced collector, this unique cultivar brings both style and satisfaction.

🛒 Now available while stocks last at TOMs FLOWer CLUB – get your vibrant Prince today!