NEWS

  • VARIEGATED MONSTERA - PROPAGATION

    Propagating MONSTERA DELICIOSA BORSIGIANA ALBO-VARIEGATA, organically grown tropical plant blog by TOMs FLOWer CLUB
    Propagating plants for the past 35 years I can tell that some plant are pretty easy to propagate and some are rather (pretty) difficult. Taking the given example, i.e. the stem cutting of MONSTERA DELICIOSA BORSIGIANA ALBO-VARIEGATA, you may wonder why it does not have any leaf/leaves.... the reason for that is quite simple... When I do the stem cuttings I always leave one leaf with the stem; honestly even this one leaf should be half-sized so that the evaporation surface is not that big and the cutting can "concentrate" on new rooting. Some cuttings even drop the leaf and only the "naked" stem remains... If this happens many people just get panicky... I do not think that there is any reason for panic as long as the stem is hard.  This is kind of a good sign, i.e. the roots are growing and new shoot will come shortly (like in the picture)... Generally the variegated plants rather need more time to root and also to grow (due to the lack of chlorophyl). Therefore, please be patient, plants require attention, love and also respective plant knowledge how to treat them... Only then the success is guaranteed.
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  • POTTED LEAF CUTTINGS of HOYA KERRII - TRUTH BEHIND

    Hoya Kerrii, TOMs FLOWer CLUB, plant blog

    I am sure you have seen (very often for Valentine's Day or Mother's Day) the individually potted leaves of the Hoya kerrii somewhere in a flower shop (at the corner) and perhaps thought about what will become of the leaf (if at all) one day. Is it really to become a proper Hoya plant? Big question mark ... 

    The Hoya kerrii is also called heartleaf plant, porcelain flower, wax flower or little darling. On the market, the plant is often sold as a single, heart-shaped leaf cutting in a small pot. This cute little cutting remains unchanged for months or even years (between one to five years, I was once told by a gardener friend). During this time, you can only hope that the leaf does not die and forms a new plant shoot within some accordingly.

    Please note that it can take "ages" for the Hoya leaf cuttings to show first growth. If the leaf offshoot turns yellow or shrivels after potting, it has probably not survived. If the small heart-shaped leaf remains green and appears basically unchanged, it has taken roots.

    If you want to exercise patience and prove your green thumb over a long period of time, try the leaf cuttings of Hoya kerrii. However, I would not take the leaf cuttings that have been painted with paint or scratched with a laser if I were you. The plants should remain in their natural beauty. What do you think?

    What is your experience with the leaf cuttings of Hoya kerri? Feel free to share your plant achievements with #tomsflowerclub on Instagram (if you have the account).

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  • PROPAGATION OF STEM BEGONIAS

    Stem cutting propagation of Begonias.

    Stem begonias (in this case BEGONIA ANGEL'S WINGS) can be quite easily propagated through the stem cuttings; each stem cutting should have at least two nodes from which the new shoot will come; you may either put the cuttings for 2-3 weeks into water to root or plant them directly into the well drained soil - keep the pot at the warm & humid place (e.g. under the glas so that you get kind of micro-climate as long as you do not have a heated green house). Generally each cutting starts rooting and growing within 3-6months accordingly. Begonias appreciate bright / semi-shady locations (no direct sun).

    Wishing you 🍀"GOOD LUCK"🍀 with your propagation!

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  • ALOE VERA

    Aloe Vera from the organically grown succulent collection of TOMs FLOWer CLUB
    Aloe vera comes from the dry regions of South Africa. The leaves usually grow without a stem rosette-like close to the ground, are very fleshy and have lateral thorns. Aloe vera is not only very well known as a houseplant, but also as a medicinal plant. The gel in its leaves can be used for wound healing and cosmetic purposes (as a gel against sunburn, insect bites, against skin irritations and against dry skin). If necessary, simply cut off a leaf at the stem and squeeze out the gel or scrape it out with a knife.

    The location for the aloe must be bright to full sun; if there is too little light (which is the case for ""99%"" in common living rooms) the plant will become yellow with time or develop rather dune and elongated leaves; instead of growing nicely compact, it grows upwards and looks for the light source. Consequently, the aloe can be recommended for very sunny locations & spaces. Your Aloe vera when it can be located outside from about the beginning of April/May (depending on the temperatures). The plant loves sun and therefore needs a warm and sunny garden spot (protect the plant against the sun burned once taking it out after the winter time; put it rather into shade for the first 1-2weeks, till it gets used to the sun shine. In full sun, its leaves might turn brown. This is normal and serves to protect the plant against the sun. During its stay outdoors, the aloe vera should be watered vigorously from time to time. It does not like waterlogging, so you should always make sure that the excess water can drain away.

    Temperature: around 25-35°C in summer, 5-10°C in winter (the plant does not tolerate sub-zero temperatures) with very little watering.

    Humidity: Water sparingly, as like all succulents it stores a lot of water in its leaves. Too much water can lead to rot (especially during the winter dormancy period, when it should be overwintered in a cooler location).

    Propagation: repot the numerous growing children from a size of a few centimetres.

    Soil: well-drained substrate, cactus soil, possibly mixed with stones and sand.

    Fertiliser: Cactus fertiliser if desired very rarely and only in summer.
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